October 24,
2014
Charleston,
SC
We stopped
at the Visitor Center in Charleston because I was mistakenly under the
impression that we could purchase our tickets at the center for the ferry to
Fort Sumter. When it was our turn, after
waiting in a long line for 20 minutes or so, we found out we could purchase our
ferry tickets at the Fort Sumter Visitor Center and park in the garage across
from the Center (also the parking garage for the Aquarium).
The parking
rate is $2/hr with a maximum $16/day.
Fort Sumter National Monument can be reached only by boat. The tour boats are operated by a National
Park Service concessionaire. The ferry
tickets ran us $34($18 for me and $16 for Monte with a senior rate)
I stamped my
passport in the Visitor Center.
This is the
first time I have seen this type of opener in the rest room.
We spent a
few minutes looking at the exhibits in the Visitor Center.
Still having
some time to kill before our 11:45 boarding time, we walked around outside.
We couldn’t
have asked for nice weather for the crossing to the fort.
Waiting to
disembark.
Before going
off on our own to explore, Ranger Rick gave a brief history of the role Fort
Sumter played in the Civil War. South
Carolina had seceded from the Union, yet Union forces still occupied Fort
Sumter at the entrance of Charleston Harbor.
The Union refused.
On April 12,
1861, South Carolina Confederate troops from nearby Fort Johnson fired on the
fort-the start of a two-day bombardment that resulted in the surrender of Fort
Sumter by Union troops.
With the
Union withdrawal, the South held the fort until it was finally evacuated on
February 17, 1865.
During that
time, the fort experienced one of the longest sieges in modern warfare. For almost two years, 46,000 shells were
fired at Fort Sumter.
After
wandering around for an hour the announcement was made that the ferry would be
departing in 10 minutes.
After our
return trip to the Visitor Center we drove across the bridge to Fort Moultrie
located on Sullivan’s Island.
As usual I
stamped my passport.
We checked
out the exhibits in the Visitor Center and then watched a short film detailing
the history of the fort. Fort Moultrie,
named after Colonel William Moultrie, protected the city of Charleston and its
strategically important harbor for more than a century and a half.
The first
fort on Sullivan’s Island, construct of palmetto log walls was built in 1776 to
prevent British navel incursions. The
walls readily absorbed shells when nine Royal Navy warships attacked on June
28, 1776. At the end of the day-long
battle the damaged British ships were driven from the area, galvanizing the
Patriots’ cause for independence.
In 1798 a
second Fort Moultrie was built constructed with earth and timber. This fort suffered the same fate as its
palmetto log predecessor, being reduced to ruins by a series of coastal storms.
The third
and present fort was constructed of brick in 1809, originally fitted with 40
guns.
The fort is
located across the street from the Visitor Center.
During the
Civil War years the fort was occupied by Confederate forces.
Fort
Moultrie underwent numerous changes during the 19th and early 20th
centuries. New threats of submarine and
aerial attacks ultimately rendered static seacoast defenses obsolete. On August 15, 1947, the army lowered Fort Moultrie’s flag for the final time.
In 1960, the state of South Carolina transferred Fort Moultrie to the National Park Service as a unit of Fort Sumter National Monument.
As we were
leaving the area we noticed a tall structure that turned out to be the
Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse. The
lighthouse holds the distinction of being the last lighthouse built by the
Coast Guard and is the most modern lighthouse in the United States.
We drove
back to Charleston because we had made 8PM reservations for a walking Ghost
Tour. While making the reservations I
had inquired about parking near the meeting point for the tour at The Griffon,
a bar and grill. We were informed there
was a parking garage nearby but we could also look for a metered spot because
after 6PM parking was free.
We lucked
out by finding a spot directly across from The Griffon. It was only 5PM so I fed the meter three
quarters that would take us into 6PM.
We walked up
East Bay St where there were no shortage of bars, taverns and restaurants with
menus displayed in windows. Most of the
restaurants were out of our budget.
We ended up
at Mac’s Place, a local sports bar.
Monte
ordered a French Dip and I ordered a hamburger.
Both were delicious.
After
dinner, still having an hour to kill before our tour began, we walked down by
the waterfront where we sat in one of the swings.
There were a
few people already waiting at The Griffon when we arrived.
The weather
was perfect for a walk around Charleston in the dark as our guide took us past
beautiful old homes and churches stopping occasionally to tell ghostly tales.
It had been
a lovely day doing one of my favorite things-exploring a place of historical
significance.
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