January 31, 2013
Desert Sky
(Tucson & Saguaro
National Park)
When the alarm went off
at 7am, and I threw off the bedspread, I was tempted to shut it off and go back
to sleep because it was chilly. But we
have been planning a day trip to Tucson and today was the day. It was forecasted to be in the 70’s and it
was difficult to decide what to wear because it was cold as we were getting
ready to go. We dressed in layers so we
would be able to adapt to whatever weather we encountered.
We packed peanut butter
and jelly sandwiches along with some fruit and were out the door by our planned
departure time of 8am. I had printed MapQuest
directions as a backup to the GPS. The route
we were directed to had us starting out on US 60E then AZ-79.
While driving through Florence, I noticed a
sign for the Historic District and we decided to check it out.
Florence has the distinction of having the
oldest functioning Arizona State Prison complex. Murphy’s Romance, starring Sally Field and
James Garner was filmed in and around the town of Florence in 1985.
Florence in one of the oldest towns in Pinal
County and is regarded as a National Historic District with over 25 buildings
listed on the Register of Historic Places.
We took a slow ride down Main Street taking pictures and admiring some
of the buildings.
A little side note I
found interesting: During WWII there was
a prisoner of war camp for German and Italian prisoners of war just north of
Florence.
While we were downtown we
noticed a sign for McFarland State Historic Park. We would have liked to explore it but didn’t
have the time because we wanted to allow plenty of time in Tucson.
Back on AZ-79 we came
across marker alerting us that the Tom Mix Monument was ahead.
We pulled into the rest area to take pictures
of the monument.
Thomas Edwin Mix was an
actor born in 1880 in Pennsylvania.
He
appeared in 291 films between 1909 and 1935, all but nine of which were silent.
The story goes that on October 12, 1940,
while driving his car on AZ-79 near Florence, he swerved to avoid construction
barriers and ended up in a gully. A
large suitcase he had in the back flew forward, striking Mix in the head,
fracturing his skull and breaking his neck.
The inscription on the plaque of his monument reads, “In memory of Tom
Mix whose spirit left his body on this spot and whose characterization and
portrayals in life served to better fix memories of the old West in the minds
of living men.”
While we were at the rest
area I noticed a garbage can with several bullet holes. I can only assume it was used as target
practice.
After traveling for
almost 60 miles on AZ-79
we turned right onto Oracle Road
and stopped for gas
in the town of Oro Valley.
We thought
paying $3.09 a gallon was a good price until after gassing up we came across
another station charging $2.99 a gallon.
But $3.09 is still a lot better than the $3.39 we paid the last time we
fueled up in Apache Junction.
Finally two and a half
hours after leaving home we arrived at our destination in Tucson.
We found a self-pay parking lot with plenty
of empty spaces available. It only cost
us $5.00 for the entire day which was a real bargain considering the
alternative would have been metered street parking at 25 cents for 15 minutes with
a 2 hour maximum. The time limit would
not have worked for us because we planned on doing the Presidio Trail
Historical Walking Tour of Downtown Tucson and did not want to have to hurry
back to the car because our meter time was expiring. The brochure I downloaded indicated allowing
2 hours for the tour but I like to really take my time and read all the
placards so I knew 2 hours would not be enough considering there were over 20
places listed on the tour.
The parking lot between
Franklin and Council Streets was only one block from the beginning of the
walking tour.
We started at #1 with the Presidio San Agustin
del Tucson.
On
August 20th, 1775, Lt. Col. Hugo O’Connor, an Irishman serving in
the Spanish Army, founded a fort in what is now downtown Tucson. With the exception of a small Spanish chapel
across the Santa Cruz River at the front of “A” Mountain, this was the first
European structure in Tucson. By the
1780s, when the 11-acre fort was completed, it consisted of 10-foot-high adobe
walls and two corner towers, each 20 feet high.
This fort marked the northwestern edge of the Spanish frontier in
Arizona. The northeast corner of the
presidio has been reconstructed on its original site at Church and Washington
and is open to the public.
The timing of our arrival
was perfect as the docent had just arrived and offered to take us on a brief
tour. The first thing she showed us was
a pit, proof that a Native American village had been present on the site over
2,000 years ago. At that time people
lived in small circular houses. The
holes around the edge on the floor of the pit had saplings that were bent over
to create a domed roof. A small fire
hearth was located in the center of the floor.
We learned from the docent that a family of four may have taken shelter
in the house during the winter months.
Next we moved on to the
Casa De Soldado (Soldier’s House). The
soldiers, most enlisting for ten years, lived in barracks. They were issued uniforms and weapons and in
addition to guarding the fort may have been required to work the fields growing
crops for them and their family.
The
docent went on to explain how bread was made in communal outdoor ovens.
After the brief tour we
wandered around taking pictures and learning more about the fort by reading the
placards.
The fort was created to
protect the residents of the community from attacks by the Apaches.
The region became part of Mexico with independence
from Spain and then was acquired by the United States.
We spent a few minutes in
the museum reading about some of the people who lived in the Tucson when it was
an adobe-walled fortress.
The
information had been obtained from census records dating between 1797 and
1848. I hadn’t realized that such
detailed records existed from that time period.
This platform spring buggy was built in the late 1880s.
As I stated earlier, the
brochure had stated that 2 hours should be set aside for the entire tour. We had already spent 45 minutes at just the
fort.
Outside of the fort, we followed
the blue line on the sidewalk to the next stop on the tour.
#2 Pima County Court house
Built in 1929 in
the Spanish Colonial Revival style, this building features a beautiful
mosaic-tiled dome and elegant courtyard.
The east wall of the presidio (Stop No. 1) is marked with a granite
strip in the red tile walkway inside the courtyard. An actual piece of the original presidio wall
can be seen in the Assessor’s Office on the south side of the courtyard.
We walked through the
courtyard and exited on the other side into a plaza bringing us to #3, the
Mormon Battalion Sculpture.
This bronze statue
commemorates the day in 1846 when Mormon soldiers entered Tucson on their way
to California to fight in the Mexican War.
The Spanish-speaking citizenry, in spite of being nervous about these
armed outsiders, treated the soldiers to a fiesta. One of the Mormon soldiers joined in the fun
by playing his fiddle (note fiddle case on north side of statue).
The Mormon battalion
consisted of about 500 men who had been dispatched to the Southwest for two purposes:
to make a show of European-American force and to establish a wagon trail
between Santa Fe and San Diego. The
2,000 mile march, from Iowa to California, is considered the longest military
march in U.S. History.
While in the plaza
we
also took pictures of the fountain,
a strange sculpture,
a veteran’s memorial,
a monument to those who fought in The Battle of the Bulge,
and #4, the Soldado
De Cuera (Leather Jacket Soldier) Sculpture.
This Spanish
soldier, assigned to the Presidio San Agustin del Tucson, is dressed for
battle. The leather armor (cuera) made
of 7 layers of deerskin, rawhide shield (adarga), and 9-foot-long lance (lanza)
made him a formidable adversary. His
shield helped to deflect arrows while his long lance was the premier weapon of
the day.
We went across # 5, the
Allande Footbridge.
This bridge,
crossing Pennington St., is dedicated to Don Pedro de Allande y Saabedra who
was appointed one of the first commanders of the presidio in 1777. Allande personally financed the early
construction efforts at the presidio, which was the largest in the Southeast.
Apparently neither Monte
nor I can read a map or follow a blue line because we totally missed # 6, the
Garces Footbridge.
This bridge, across
Broadway, commemorates Father Francisco Garces, the Franciscan priest who rode
north from Tubac with Lt. Col. Hugo O’Conor in 1775 to found the presidio in
Tucson. He explored throughout the
region and died in 1781 during an Indian uprising.
After crossing the
bridge, we entered the Plaza De Mesilla
where we stopped in the Tucson Visitor’s
Center
to pick up some literature
and get the key to the restroom. There are several shops in the plaza
as well
as our next stop on the tour, #7, the Gazebo in Plaza De Mesilla (La Placita).
This is a replica
of the original 1880s bandstand in the plaza and is the site where the stagecoach
would gallop into town from Mesilla, New Mexico, or San Diego along the old
Camino Real (the Royal Road). Often,
Apache arrows would be embedded in the stagecoach from encounters along the
trail. La Placita is a collection of
shops, and offices built in the 1970s on the site of an old Tucson neighborhood
as part of urban renewal.
Between numbers on the
walking tour there are lettered stops.
We missed the A stop (don’t know how we did that).
Through the wrought
iron fence a commanding statue of Pancho Villa is visible on a grassy area in
the center of Broadway. The statue was
given to Tucson by Mexico in 1981, with a wry sense of irony considering Pancho
Villa made outlaw incursions into southern Arizona.
On our way to the next
stop on the walking tour we passed this huge rock
that was a gift to the city
and weighs over 8,000 pounds.
#8, Sosa-Carrillo-Fremont
House.
This house museum
was once owned by the Sosa-Carrillo families; the oldest part of the structure
was built as early as the 1850s. It was
briefly used as the residence of members of the family of General John C.
Fremont, who was appointed the Territorial Governor in 1878. This Sonoran row house contains an excellent
example of a zaguan, a central hall leading from the front to the rear
yard. The mission fig in the courtyard
was probably planted in the 1700s.
Unfortunately we didn’t
get to see inside the museum because it was closed.
We continued walking a
couple of blocks until reaching the Tucson Convention Center and our next stop,
#9, Jacome Art Panel.
This panel,
depicting the arrival of the Spanish, used to be displayed on the front of the
Jacome Department Store in downtown Tucson.
When the store was demolished in the 1970s, the Jacome family donated
the art to the new convention center.
Directly next to the
panel is a placard that is letter B on the walking tour, Sentinel Peak/ “A”
Mountain.
To the west you
will see a basaltic peak adorned with the letter “A”. This was once a lookout for Spanish and
Native American sentinels, who watched for raiders approaching the presidio and
mission. The “A” was added in 1915, in a
burst of University of Arizona student enthusiasm, as the result of a football
victory over Pomona College. The O’odham
name for the mountain, pronounced Chuk Shon, means “at the black base.” This is the source of the name Tucson.
Directly next to the
Letter B placard is the letter C placard listing information for Tumamoc
(Horned Lizard) Hill.
This hill, located
just north of “A” Mountain, means “horned lizard” in the Tohono O’odham
language. In an O’odham legend a giant
horned lizard suddenly began eating people.
The O’odham prayed to their god I’itoi to help them. I’itoi heard them and turned the lizard into
a rocky hill. Now Tumamoc is the home of
the University of Arizona’s Desert Laboratory, founded in 1903. This hill is the side of the longest
continuous botanical monitoring plots in the Sonoran Desert. In addition, the hill was used by indigenous
people for farming and other purposes for several thousand years and is an
important archaeological site.
After crossing Cushing
Street, we arrived at #10, El Tiradito (The Castaway) also known as The Wishing
Shrine.
This shrine is
typical of small shrines in many communities in Mexico, where people come to
burn candles and pray, asking for help with their problems. One legend associated with this shrine
involves a tragic love triangle in the 1870s, with a husband killing his wife’s
lover. A priest would not let the man be
buried in the consecrated cemetery so local people lit candles at this location
to pray for his soul.
This adobe
structure is a small museum dedicated to preserving the history of the site
that is now part of Barrio Viejo. A
permanent historic photo exhibit tells the story of Carrillo’s Gardens, Elysian
Grove, El Tiradito and El Ojito.
Seasonal exhibits celebrate Dia de los Muertos and Las Posadas. A small gift shop features regional and
seasonal items.
Inside the museum is a beautifully
arranged photo gallery of neighborhood residents detailing, in their own words,
their experience living in the barrio.
After leaving La Pilita, we found a picnic table next door
at Rosendo S. Perez Park
and had our lunch.
My peanut butter and jelly sandwich got smooshed but it tasted pretty
good especially since it was already 1:30.
The sun finally came out and was warm enough for us to take off our
jackets.
After lunch we walked one
block to Letter D, Carrillo’s Gardens/Elysian Grove.
Our next stop, only one
block away, brought us to #12, Carrillo Elementary School.
This red-tile
roofed elementary school, built in 1930 in the Mission Revival style, was named
for Mexican businessman Leopoldo Carrillo, the developer of Carrillo’s
Gardens. It is well known for its
traditional presentation, Las Posadas.
Where the heck are we?
Traveling up Simpson and
then down Meyer brought us to #13, Teatro Carmen.
This adobe building
named for the wife of its builder, Carmen Soto Vasquez, has an interesting and
checkered history. Opened in 1915, it
began as a theater devoted to staging dramatic works in Spanish, then it became
a movie theater, boxing arena, garage, and Elks Lodge.
Across the street we came
upon #14, Ferrin House (now Cushing Street Bar & Restaurant)
This old adobe home
was built in the 1860s by tailor Joseph Ferrin and his wife Therese. Therese and the Ferrin’s daughter Clara were
instrumental in building the first synagogue in Arizona on south Stone
Ave. A store was added to the residence
in the 1880s; the structure now operates as a family-owned restaurant and bar.
Back on Cushing Street,
we arrived at #15, Barrio Viejo Streetscape.
These adobe
buildings along Cushing Street, built in the Sonoran row-house style in the
late 1800s, are part of Barrio Viejo, Tucson’s oldest neighborhood. On the front of No. 124, note the decorated canales,
long metal spouts that direct rainwater away from the adobe walls.
We noticed an open gate
between two houses and Monte went in to investigate.
I stood on the sidewalk taking pictures. A woman opened the door of the house I was in
front of and invited me to go into the gate to take pictures of the fountain in
the rear of the house.
Monte and I were
wondering what these house looked like inside.
We were able to find out when a carpenter working in one of the house
spotted us taking pictures of the outside and invited us in.
(We opted not to post those pictures to
protect the privacy of the owner.)
From Cushing, we turned
up Scott Street and found our next stop, #16, Temple of Music & Art.
This 1927 theater,
constructed on behalf of The Saturday Morning Music Club, brought a flourishing
musical scene to Tucson including world famous artists such as Jascha
Heifetz. Built in the Spanish Colonial
Revival style, this building features an inviting courtyard with a fountain. The building was restored in 1990 and is a
popular theater venue, renowned for its excellent acoustics.
Letter E, on Stone Street
is the St. Augustine Cathedral.
Begun in 1896, this
Spanish Colonial Revival style church has a magnificent sandstone façade. In an unusual tribute to local flora and fauna
the façade features a saguaro, yucca, horned lizard and various cacti. Housed within the vestibule is one of the bells
from the Spanish-era presidio.
We tried the door to the
church and were surprised to find it unlocked.
There are beautiful murals in the vestibule
and upon entering the door
to the church and anointing myself with holy water I was immediately
transported back to my childhood.
I
soaked in the nice feeling while sitting in one of the pews for a few minutes.
Our next stop, only one
block away, was to Letter F, Tucson Children’s Museum (formerly the Carnegie
Library).
Built in 1900 this
building has survived fire and the loss of much of its ornamentation. The massive bench at the front was designed
by California architect Bernard Maybeck and sculpted by world-famous sculptor
Benjamin Bufano in honor of Arizona’s pioneer settlers.
We totally missed taking
pictures of this site perhaps because we noticed what appeared to be prints in
the cement of a large predator.
On our way to the next
stop on the tour we came across a statue of a phoenix whose name on the plague
was list as Toby.
Toby was at the corner of
our next stop, Letter G, the Scottish Rite Cathedral.
Designed by Henry
Trost, this unusual building was built in 1915 in a variety of Neo-classical
styles. The building façade, of brick
and terra cotta, is Roman Revival with Greek revival Ionic capitals. The building houses Masonic organizations and
is not open to the public.
Moving up 12th
Street to our next stop at # 17 was Armory Park.
During and
immediately after the Civil War this was the camp where soldiers were
bivouacked. Because the civilian
neighbors considered the soldiers’ behavior excessively rowdy, the camp was
eventually moved out of town to its current location on Craycroft Road and
renamed Fort Lowell. Three monuments are
located here honoring those who fought in the Spanish-American War, WWI, and
with the Mormon Battalion in 1846.
We didn’t stay at this
location long because (I hate to admit this but) there were too many homeless
people gathered in the park and quite a few characters who appeared to be high
and I just didn’t feel safe.
It was starting to get
chilly at this point and we were getting tired but I was determined to complete
the entire walking tour so we continued on to #18, the Independent Order Of Odd
Fellows Hall.
This early 20th
century commercial building once housed a spacious dance hall on the second
floor. The Odd Fellows have been an
active social club since 1891 in Tucson as well as a charitable group whose
goals included helping fellow community members in times of need. The building now houses a restaurant as well
as the Etherton art and photography gallery.
We only took a couple of
pictures as this location before moving on passing a tattoo parlor,
the
Ronstadt bus station,
and some other interesting looking shops
before arriving
at our next location, #20, Historic Railroad Depot. (We actually went out of order at this point-again
not sure how we did that)
Built in 1907, the
depot was restored in 2004 to its 1942 appearance. In addition to a functioning passenger train
lobby, it houses an Amtrak office, a rental car office, Maynards’ market and
kitchen and an excellent small museum highlighting transportation. Historic stream locomotive # 1673 is located
at trackside. A life-size sculpture of
Wyatt Earp and “Doc” Holiday marks the 1882 incident ending with the death of
Frank Stilwell near the first depot.
Unfortunately the museum
was closed by the time we arrived but we did walk around back and get pictures
of the Wyatt Earp statue.
We also took a
walk through the Obsidian Gallery.
According to the Central Tucson Gallery Association, “The gallery
exhibits both contemporary fine art and Craft in the Tucson Historic Depot.”
Rather than critique the “art” in the gallery
let me just say that art is in the eye of the beholder.
While I took advantage of
the restroom in the Amtrak office, Monte went around taking pictures of some of
the memorabilia in the lobby.
Outside,
we took a few minutes to look over the shoulder s of some of the artists
painting the depot.
Realizing we skipped #
19, we tried finding it on the map to see where we went wrong only to realize
that it was directly across the street from us.
Duh! We really were getting
tired.
#19 is the Hotel
Congress.
Built in 1919 across from the railroad
depot, this hotel was popular with winter visitors. It became famous in 1934 when members of John
Dillinger’s gang rented rooms. While
they were there, the building caught fire and the gang paid some firemen to
carry their bags outside. The firemen didn’t
open the bags but wondered why they were so heavy; the bags contained
submachine guns and bulletproof vests.
The gang was recognized from a True Detective Mysteries magazine and
soon arrested. This hotel flourishes
today and includes a popular restaurant and active night spot.
We crossed the street to
take pictures and noticed there were artists painting the hotel.
Moving up Congress
Street, partially restricted due to construction, we arrived at #21, the Fox
Theatre.
After being closed
for 30 years, this grand Art Deco movie theater has just been restored to its
former greatness. Originally designed
for vaudeville and silent movies, this became Tucson’s preeminent movie
theater. It was the site of the world
premier in 1940 of the film Arizona starring William Holden and Jean
Arthur. It now hosts both screen and
stage events.
Letter H, Pioneer Hotel
Building was next.
Opened in 1929 in the center of the
downtown business district, this hotel catered to the social elite. In the mid-20th century Harold and
Margaret Steinfeld, owners of a large downtown department store lived in the
penthouse. A disastrous fire severely
damaged the building in December 1970, and among the 29 victims were the
Steinfelds. The fire hastened the
decline of downtown Tucson, which is reviving today with the help of the
ambitious Rio Nuevo redevelopment project.
Letter I, Arizona
Historical Society Downtown Museum
Located
just across from the Tucson Main Library, this excellent, small museum tells
the fascinating story of downtown Tucson.
We were really getting
tired of walking so we kind of picked up the pace so we could complete the tour
and get back to the car to sit down.
We somehow managed to get
off track again and ended up missing #22, going directly to #23, the Telles
Block (now Old Town Artisans).
Almost this entire
block is defined by attached Sonoran row houses, with a large, shady courtyard
on the interior. These structures have
had a variety of incarnations, including homes during the late 1800s, a lumber
yard, and a gas station. In addition,
the blacksmith shop of the Spanish-era presidio was very likely located here. Now these old adobe buildings house 11
different artisans shops as well as a restaurant.
We walked through the
courtyard quickly taking just enough time to take a few pictures.
Looking at the map again we realized where we
had made our mistake and only had to walk one block to do our last site, # 22,
Tucson Museum of Art And Historic Block.
Built in 1973, this
museum features modern western and Pre-Columbian art. Five historic homes are on its grounds. The Fish-Stevens homes, the Romero house, and
the Casa Cordova, all built in the 1860s are classic Sonoran row houses. In the Casa Cordova an elaborate Nacimiento,
a Mexican Nativity Scene, is displayed; it is generally open from November to
April. The Mission Revival style Corbett
house was built in 1907 by one of Tucson’s first lumber dealers.
We walked inside the
museum to find out what they offer. We
decided not to pay the $8.00 per person admission fee because it was already
4pm and we were really tired. Luckily the parking lot where our car was
parked was only one block away.
We had planned on eating
a nice dinner out but it was too early so I looked at the map to see if there
was anything close by where we could tour by driving. I noticed that Saguaro National Park was
nearby. In order to get to the
National Park we had to drive through Tucson Mountain Park on our favorite kind
of road—twisty turning with no guardrail.
I was hoping to get to
the Red Hills Visitor Center by 5pm because I wanted to be able to stamp my
passport.
We heard the announcement that
the center was closing just as we entered.
I quickly rushed over to the counter, found the stamping station and
stamped my book.
The ranger gave us a
park paper, informed us that we could stay in the park until sunset and even
answered a few questions before reminding us they were officially closed.
We drove along Kinney
Road that is paved, before turning into a road with an open gate.
Hohokam Road is a dirt road that after a
mile goes from a two way road to a one way road. It did not take us long to discover why it
was one way. The road was very narrow
and curving. We stopped a few places
along the way to take pictures but I was rushed Monte along because I was afraid
of being locked in after 6pm with only one bottle of water between us and a couple
of granola bars.
We made it back onto the
main road in plenty of time.
We were
hungry so I entered Applebee’s in the GPS because I had a gift card. I was pleasantly surprised to see there was
on located only 20 miles away.
I got a little nervous when the GPS said we would arrive at the "Alley"
But it really did take us to Applebee's!
We found
it easily.
Before we went inside Monte
took some pictures of the sunset.
We did
not have to wait to be seated.
When our
waitress came to take our drink order she informed me that it was Happy
Hour. Great! I was ready for a cocktail. I ordered my usual White Zinfandel.
“Wines are not part of
our happy hour.”
WHAT!
“But the wine only costs
$4 a glass.”
Okay, I say.
“I will have to check to
see if we have any white zinfandel left.”
WHAT!
Our waitress leaves and
returns in a few minutes with Monte’s Mountain Dew
and informed me that they
have the wine and she will bring it over in a few minutes. She took our order. Monte made a point of asking her not to bring
his meal too quickly after receiving his soup.
I finally got my glass of
wine.
(Well half a glass really)
It took
40 minutes for our appetizer and Monte’s soup to be delivered to the
table.
Our server asked me if I wanted
another glass of wine. I asked her if
the Red Apple Sangria was part of the happy hour. She said it was and I ordered one. A few minutes later, the waitress returns to
let me know the bar is out of Red Apple Sangria and asks me if I would like to
try the White Peach Sangria instead.
Long story short—I tried it and spent the hour and a half ride home
regretting it. I know I can’t drink
liquor but every once in a while I order something with liquor and am reminded
why I don’t drink LIQUOR!
We had been concerned
about getting our entrees too soon but we really didn’t have to be concerned
because our meals did not arrive for another 40 minutes! Monte’s mashed potatoes were lumpy but his
steak was cooked perfectly as was mine.
BUT we overate. Normally, when we
eat at Applebee’s we bring home half for another meal but because we had to
travel home too long without refrigeration, we could not take home
leftovers. So in order not to be
wasteful, we ate all of our steak and most of the potato.
It was a very dark ride
home on AZ-79. But the ride home went
quickly as we relived the events of the day.
Note: all print in italic was taken
directly from the Tucson Presidio Trust for Historic Preservation brochure.
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